How to Repair Toe Rail Leaks
In response to reader requests, the following
is a description of my efforts to identify the toe rail as the source of
leaks in my C-26, and efforts taken to repair the leaks. While this
description is geared to a C-26, it is also applicable to C-20 & C-22 classes
as well, because the hull/deck composition appears to be very similar.
Unfortunately, this repair job was done about a year ago, and I had not
envisioned writing a "how to" tutorial on the job. Consequently, no photos
are provided in this tutorial.
Ron & Sue Hatton provided me with a great deal of information and moral
support in identifying and repairing the leak.
Identification of the Toe Rail as the Source of Leaks
I was getting water in the boat, but couldn't figure out how it was coming
in. I checked all my thru-deck fittings, windows, etc., but couldn't find
any leaks that would account for the amount of water in the boat. I pulled
the boat out of the water and checked the thru-hull fittings, but found no
places where the water could be coming in.
Finally, after examining all possible alternatives, I took a look at the
toe rail, which was slightly bent from a previous accident which I had deemed
not to be too serious.
The accident which caused the leak was one of my own doing. It occured
after I had tied off my boat in the slip after a day of sailing. I was in a
hurry and did not leave enough slack in the lines. We had a strong storm
surge in the marina due to heavy rains. Inevitably, the boat had to rise
with the storm surge, and my port side toe rail was caught underneath the
dock. The force of the rising water forced the toe rail to bend outwards,
and to partially pull out the screws holding the toe rail to the deck.
As a result of this problem, I had water coming in through the screw holes
in the deck. Water was gathering on the deck and coming in through the holes
left by the toe rail screws.
Toe Rail Removal & Repair
- First pull off the black rubber "bumper" strip. Make sure not to tear or rip
it, as you will need to reinstall it later! To get to the rubber strip, remove the
"angle" fittings covering the "bumper" at the bow and stern. Use a flat head
screw driver or narrow-bladed putty knife to get underneath and remove it.
Removal of the black rubber "bumper" strip will leave the toe rail screws exposed.
- Next, remove the screws with a phillips head screw driver. Make sure to
save the screws for reinstallation!
- Once the screws are removed, you will be able to pry the toe rail off. I
found that the toe rail came off fairly easily, because the adhesive between
the toe rail and the the hull was fairly old. Yours may not be as easy.
One thing I want to stress here; this is a two-person job, as the toe rail
is stainless steel or aluminum, and fairly heavy as well as unwieldy. You
don't want the toe rail to get bent any further, or to mar your gelcoat if it
gets dropped.
- Next, scrape off the old adhesive, making sure to really get all the
adhesive off. I found this step to be the most labor-intensive part of the
project, as the old adhesive was fairly difficult to get off. You will want
to use a paint scraper and adhesive remover to get the old adhesive off.
NOTE: A discussion of adhesive & adhesive removal materials is provided
at the bottom of this tutorial.
- Next, fill in the screw holes with new adhesive. Also, make sure to
liberally spread new adhesive in the trough where the toe rail sits, over the
sandwiched edges of the hull and deck layers. You can afford to be a little
bit sloppy here, as you can always clean up the adhesive afterwards. Make
sure to be generous with the new adhesive, as this will provide an extra
bond between the layers, and establish a thoroughly waterproof barrier once
the toe rail is reattached.
- While the new adhesive is still fresh, re-install the toe rail with
the screws you removed earlier. Again, two people are needed to hold and
reinstall the toe rail. You will want to begin the reinstallation process at
the bow, and work your way aft.
- If your original screw holes were damaged (like mine), you will want
to avoid re-using the damaged holes. They will not provide any support to
hold the screws. You will want to drill some new holes to provide the
support necessary to keep the toe rail firmly attached. Use the toe rail
as a template for drilling new holes. If you do drill new holes and don't
have enough screws for the job, make sure to get stainless steel screws that
match the old screws.
- At this point, the toe rail itself should be reinstalled. You will
want to make another pass with the new adhesive on both the topside and
underside of the area where the toerail was reinstalled, wiping off the
excess adhesive afterwards.
- The last step will be to reinstall the rubber "bumper" strip. You will
find that it is harder to reinstall the strip than it was to remove it. Again,
start at the bow and work your way back, using a flat headed screwdriver or
narrow putty knife to get the strip back into the groove. You will want to
pull vigorously on the rubber strip to get it to stretch back to its old
length. Finally, reinstall the "angle" fittings atop the rubber strip.
Summary and Lessons Learned
For me, the whole process of repairing the toe rail was done in about four
hours, and was much easier than I thought it would be.
I was fortunate that I had someone to help me, as it would have been
impossible to accomplish by myself.
Take the time to thoroughly remove all old adhesive.
The rubber strip was very hard to reinstall; you will need to do some
serious pulling here, but it will fit!
Adhesives & Adhesive Removers
In case you're wondering which adhesive to use, I used 3M 5200 Polyurethane
Adhesive/Sealant in a caulkgun. Here is 3M's description of this product:
"Famous because it provides incredible adhesion, yet stays flexible after
it cures. Ideal for underwater thru-hull fittings, hull-to-deck joints,
portholes, and bonding wood to fiberglass. Goes on smoothly, won't sag, and
remains workable up to 4 hours. Retains strength above and below the waterline.
Becomes tack-free in 48 hours, and cures completely in 5-7 days with no
shrinking. Cleans up with kerosene or mineral spirits."
Regarding adhesive removal, I looked in the West Marine catalog under
paint/adhesive strippers -- here's what they carry (these descriptions,
except where noted, were copied directly from their catalog):
- Acetone: Effective for metal cleaning, epoxies, vinyls, lacquers,
solvent based contact cement or adhesives, plastic and polyester resins and
fiberglass. [Rik's note: I've used this product, and know that my marina
uses it as well -- it is a hazardous chemical so be VERY careful using it --
make sure to use long sleeves and pants, good gloves designed for use with
chemicals, a good respirator (not a cloth mask), and safety goggles. You
don't want to get this stuff on you!]
- Methyl Ethyl Ketone: MEK has characteristics similar to acetone, but
is 30% slower evaporating. [Rik's note: never used this product before]
- Paint Stripper: Premium stripper, in thick, brushable paste form.
Suitable for paint, epoxy and polyurethane. Not for use on fiberglass.
[Rik's note: never used this product before]
- Paint & Epoxy Remover: Removes epoxy, urethane, varnish, lacquer and
shellac. Won't stain wood, veneer, or glass. Not for use on fiberglass.
[Rik's note: never used this product before]
My recommendation though, is for you to either contact your local marine
supply store or one of the big marine supply stores like West Marine.
Explain what you're trying to do and they'll provide you with solid advice.
West Marine's phone number is 1-800-BOATING (262-8464).
Cost
Description |
Cost |
3M 5200 Adhesive (10 oz) |
$9.00 |
Caulkgun |
$6.00 |
Stainless Steel Screws |
$1.00 |
If you have any questions about any of the information in this tutorial,
send me an e-mail at sneeuwjr@erols.com
or click on the e-mail button in the left frame.
This page last updated on Saturday, October 16, 1999.